Soil

House & Garden’s Soil A&B is a two part base nutrient specifically created for soil gardens that do not contain lime. Soil A&B’s liquid formulation contains no bulking agents or additional additives. This unique composition expedites the transfer of nutrients from the root zone into the foliage. House & Garden maintains their own nutrient manufacturing facility as well as their own laboratories where they continually test each batch of fertilizer they produce. This ensures that gardeners employing House & Garden receive high quality, consistent products.

Derived From: Calcium Nitrate, Ammonium Nitrate, Nitric Acid, Potassium Hydroxide, Phosphoric Acid Anhydride, and Magnesium Sulfate

Ingredients Explained: Soil A&B contains calcium and is intended for soil gardens that do not contain lime. The special formulation helps to keep the nutrient solution fresh and pure.

Application: Soil A&B is the complete macro/micro nutrient for the plant’s entire life, dosage will vary.

Available Sizes: 1L, 5L, 10L & 20L

{ 38 comments… read them below or add one }

Mori November 14, 2011 at 4:38 pm

I’m just starting this line of Nut,s. Should I ” BREW” the the mix for a period of time like 24 hrs ?
Are there any Nut’s. I should not mix together before I use them ?

Mori

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House & Garden November 15, 2011 at 1:34 am

Hi Mori,

You can mix a batch of nutrient water and it’s ready to go. Just be sure to follow the mixing instructions on the feed chart, and please follow the feed chart as it’s written to get the best results. Our nutrient line and feed charts are designed to be user friendly, even for beginners. Good luck and happy gardening!

Alan

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Mike November 29, 2011 at 4:37 am

Hello i have a small concern,your soil a an b says it for soil tht does not have lime ,i just got your whole line and im abt to start using it ,my concern is tht my soil has dolimite lime in it ,do you think this will be a problem and if so wht do you suggest,thanks for your time

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House & Garden December 5, 2011 at 3:17 pm

Hi Mike,

Your Soil A/B nutrients will be fine with the soil you have. Peace!

Alan

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Alex December 11, 2011 at 10:38 am

I recently added pulverized garden lime to some roots organic soil to balance out the ph. Will this be an issue with soil a and b?

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House & Garden December 13, 2011 at 12:03 pm

Hi Alex,

The lime you added won’t be an issue. Peace!

Alan

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carlos December 12, 2011 at 6:09 pm

Hey guys, a question abt New labels and old, I just picked up your amino treatment today as well as a new feed chart and notice there’s quite a big jump in base nutrient requirements compared to my other sched. My question is, how do I know if my base is to be used with this schedule or should I stick with the old feeding schedule till it’s time for new bottles?

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House & Garden December 13, 2011 at 1:49 pm

Hi Carlos,

It’s only the labels that have changed. All of the formulas are the same. The feed charts have been slightly modified, but the only thing I can see that’s different is for a 12 week flower cycle, the base nutrients bump up 1ml in the early weeks. You can start using the new feed chat any time you wish. Peace!

Alan

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Tu December 15, 2011 at 9:35 pm

I’m growing in soil…should I be feeding my plants every watering? The feeding chart only shows the measurements for each product but doesn’t suggest how often? Can someone please clarify because my plants seem to be over fert. and or experiencing some sort of nute lockout. Any advice and help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

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House & Garden December 16, 2011 at 9:57 am

Hi Tu,

Yes, you need to feed every time you water. Maybe they need more food and they aren’t locked out. Sometimes the symptoms can look similar. If the leaves are getting pale looking, they might just need more food. Try spraying with Magic Green if you have some. Peace!

Alan

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EVAN December 20, 2011 at 10:58 pm

SO IT ISNT TRUE THAT I SHOULD USE NEUTS THEN WATER THE NEXT TIME?NUETS ALL THE TIME ALL WEEKS VEG AND FLOWER?

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House & Garden December 22, 2011 at 2:15 pm

Hi Evan,

Feed every time you water. Peace!

Alan

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john January 6, 2012 at 6:20 pm

i was feeding every second watering following the feed chart(feeding once a week about) and i had yellow leaves and purple stems, i figured it was either lock out or not enough food….then i seen this and figured your supposed to feed every watering…so i did…the nect 2 days were dramatical, the leaves shot up, turned a nice dark green, and had yellow burnt tips…definently overfert…..so i ask, why does your company say to feed every watering at pretty much the same strength as every other nute company but all other companys say “fertilize ONLY ONCE a week” or “feed only every 3rd watering” ?

what makes you guys able to say to feed every watering ? i emailed but got no response….hoping to get one here

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House & Garden January 10, 2012 at 12:11 pm

Hi John,

Well, there are alot of variables in play here. Maybe since you were only feeding about once a week, you increased the nutrients. Then when you figured out to feed every time, you kept the same increased nutrient levels and fed multiple days in a row and overfed them. If you’re using soil that is hot out of the bag, that might have something to do with it. These charts are guidelines and have suggested feed levels. It’s every growers responsibility to figure out what their plants need not the responsibility of the feed chart. I really think that you just hit them too hard for two days in a row. I’m sure that you’l figure it out. Peace!

Alan

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steve December 28, 2011 at 10:10 pm

It appears i am having a nutrient lock out. When i check the run off on my soil it is quite higher than what was put in so i had no choice but to water only. Is there a solution to this. Also if i go by the chart with ro water my plants tend to burn no matter what strain. what should i do, i have also tried to use cal mag on a couple to make sure there were no defientcies.

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House & Garden December 30, 2011 at 8:35 am

Hi Steve,

Flushing for a few days should take care of the lock out, then be sure to let the soil dry out properly before adding more nutrients. Be sure to mix the soil A/B coreectly or that can cause lockout. Maybe you have salt build up?. I don’t really know what stage your plants are in,. but I thought I would throw those scenarios out there. If your plants are burning, use less nutrients. The chart shows “suggested” amounts of nutrient levels. Every strain is different. Some can take the nutrients past the aggressive mark and some need lower than normal nutrient levels. Peace!

Alan

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rich January 1, 2012 at 1:44 am

I put my plants on a 10 week and thay need a 8 week what should I do

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House & Garden January 3, 2012 at 10:37 am

Hi Rich,

What to do now depends on how far you are in to the 10 week cycle. Let me know.

Alan

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paul fallen January 1, 2012 at 1:40 pm

You mentioned only the labels changed yet the analysis is much lower are on the new ones. Not sure if I should return them or not.

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House & Garden January 3, 2012 at 10:42 am

Hi Paul,

The labels are the only thing that has changed. I promise you. Peace!

Alan

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mike the knife January 1, 2012 at 2:52 pm

i think i found the answer…

drop week 1 of 10 week flowering schedule.

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House & Garden January 3, 2012 at 10:44 am

Hi Mike,

I knew you could figure it out. Peace!

Alan

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Rizzo January 2, 2012 at 9:43 am

Why is soil A & B not to be used with soils that contain lime? what soils do you recomend for use with your products? Thanks

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House & Garden January 3, 2012 at 12:11 pm

Hi Rizzo,

I generally recommend Ocean Forest or Happy Frog soil. If you use Ocean Forest, don’t give any nutrients for 2-3 weeks. It comes out of the bag hot. Happy Frog has less nutrients in it out of the bag Peace!

Alan

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Rizzo January 3, 2012 at 6:06 pm

Thank you for your recomendation Alan! I am still curious as to why you recomend soils that do NOT contain limestone. Can you elaborate on this subject please? Thanks again for all your help!

Rizzo

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House & Garden January 4, 2012 at 9:20 am

Hi Rizzo,

The lime will break down into calcium and the nutrient has calcium in it already, but you will be fine. Remember not to add nutrients for a couple weeks if you’re using soil that’s hot out of the bag. Peace!

Alan

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DeAngelo January 13, 2012 at 7:46 am

I use a soiless mix and was wanting to try your products I grow in promix which is peat based so would i use the soil or the coco base?

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House & Garden January 13, 2012 at 11:19 am

Hi DeAngelo,

Soil A/B is probably the most user friendly, but Aqua Flakes A/B will probably give better quality and yield. Peace!

Alan

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Michael January 29, 2012 at 3:11 pm

I’m changing to the H&G lineup and have a question similar to DeAngelo I’m in Roots 707 in Smartpots with 8 weeks of vegging. They feed voraciously and I have to feed every other day. Would I be better off with aqua flakes instead of the soil formula?

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House & Garden January 30, 2012 at 12:38 pm

Hi Michael,

Aqua Flakes is for a soilless medium, you have soil, so stick with Soil A/B. Peace!

Alan

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cheesus January 16, 2012 at 1:18 am

hey dude just wondering if you know what the ecu level of normal tap water should be? just checking my pens correct!! also this is what i use, bio bizz all mix soil
veg stage
h&g 1 comp
h&g root excel
h&g multi zyme
flower stage
all above plus
bud xl
pk 13/14
shooting powder or shooting gel
all house and garden products is there anything you would change or add to get better results? any help appreciated
thanks dude

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House & Garden January 17, 2012 at 10:49 am

Hi Cheesus,

Your line up looks pretty good. Just be sure not to use PK 13-14 at the same time as Shooting Powder or Shooting gel. I would substitute the PK 13-14 for Top Booster. Peace!

Alan

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chesseus January 17, 2012 at 11:05 pm

Alan
thanks alan, much appreciated, would i be better using a+b arade than 1 component with the soil im using or not? not sure which would give better results? do you recommend the AMINO treatment? plus want a new strain to try any ideas on some really tasty good yielders?
cheesus

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House & Garden January 20, 2012 at 3:04 pm

Hey Cheeseus,

I think you would get better results with Soil A/B as your base nutrients, and I do recommend the Amino Treatment. You won’t beleive the stalks you’ll get with the stuff. A seed bank woould be the best place to get that other information. Peace!

Alan

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Mike January 22, 2012 at 12:53 pm

I use soil A&B. When you say PH adjusters does that mean it will drop tap water to around 6.3 when A&B is added? I use distilled water mostly and when I add A&B my ph drops to 3.8 – 4.5 but when I use tap water it drops my ph to 6.3.
I don’t like to use tap water because of the lime and alum and fluoride used to treat it. Should I stick to distilled and just add ph up?
Thanks for the great products
Mike

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House & Garden January 24, 2012 at 12:19 pm

Hi Mike,

Tap water is fine to use, but you can use distilled also. If you choose to stay with distilled, you’ll have to add PH up to adjust properly. If you choose to use tap water, you’ll have to use some PH down eventually I’m sure. I keep both on hand just in case I go too far in one direction. Peace!

Alan

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mike February 1, 2012 at 6:12 pm

I am using soil A and B right now in soil mixed with around 50 percent coco. Should I adjust the PH to 6.3 like it says for soil or should i lower it a bit to allow for the 50% coco? I noticed a couple of my plants kinda stopped growing and are getting some purple on the leaf stems were it wasn’t before. Or should I change to Coco A and B to fix the problem?
thanks for the help

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House & Garden February 2, 2012 at 3:02 pm

Hi Mike,

If you have 50% coco you should use the Cocos A/B and folow that chart. You either have some lockout or you have a nitrogen deficiency. I would lean towards the lockout because you said that a couple plants stopped growing. I would recommend a good flush and then just use base nutrients and see how they do. Peace!

Alan

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